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When one arrives as a visitor, stepping off the boat at the lakeside jetty in Santiago Atitlan, one is surrounded by a group of children crying out "Max-i-mon, Max-i-mon." And if you follow them they will lead you, for a small consideration, up "Gringo Alley" and down rocky streets and sometimes up steps and along back alleys, until you reach a compound very likely festooned with paper decorations and even Coca-Cola pennants.